Wednesday, August 10, 2011

On Death

On Death


                                                “…that undiscover’d country
                                                From whose bourne no traveler returns.”
                                                                                    - Hamlet

  Six good friends set off on an afternoon's adventure.


          An essay on Death?  Really?  How much more clear could the Bard be?  No traveler returns.  Not one, ever, tales of ghosts notwithstanding.  So what is there to write about?  Death is a blank screen.  Consciousness blinked off like a dead light bulb.  Brief candle, etc.  We all know what death is: it is that one thing we cannot make into an object of the imagination.  It is the hypothetical Outside to the seemingly infinite field of consciousness.
            Yet much has been written.  What are we really writing about, then?  I dismiss out of hand all those who are convinced in any way that consciousness persists in any form after death.  They are simply asserting that there is no such thing as death.  But death as an element of our consciousness is as obdurately real as any other element; as real to us in our thinking and emotion as the physical world, as love, as hatred, as pleasure, and so forth.  I often think of death, just for convenience, as something always very near, like a crow perched alertly on my shoulder, silent and stalwart, sometimes almost forgotten, but never absent for a moment.  Those who assert that there is no death are simply trying to shoo that pesky crow away; they may make it invisible for a time, but it persists, because it is one of the most primal elements of consciousness. This is a poem of mine, prompted by climbing some twenty-five years ago:


The Gendarme                                                                          October 1986

He stands on one foot
and leans west
into the wind, shoulder hunched –

East and west the pale stone falls
sheer and far and fast to
rhododendron and talus.
He looks as if careening
around a corner on one roller skate
balancing against the west wind
or mere centrifugal force
the whirling of the mountain
beneath the fixed wind,
the motionless clouds.

Inching up the small of his back
sneaking up his shoulder –
got to get up and back down
before he wakes, and notices my
stealthy palm silently set
on wrinkled stone skin.
If he shrugs or startles
we will both fly far,
break together;
this afternoon of brilliant texture
sunlight and dark clouds
leopards running through the hills
all of it instantly swallowed
by the great black fish.

I stand up
swaying in the unreliable air;
the camera jeers and I turn
and reverse each motion
smoothly as water meandering down a gutter
to where those immense jaws can be
more easily ignored.
And the day begins again,
amazing, as it ever was.

(Historical note: the 30-foot tall finger of rock standing in the Gunsight at Seneca Rocks, known as the Gendarme, which had stood there for unknown aeons, fell over about a month after I climbed it.  No one was injured.)

 Far off, beyond the pleasant meadows of existence, there rises a line of mountains;
of the lands beyond them, nothing is known.

            I am a climber; specifically a rock climber, subcategory crag climber, subcategory ‘trad’, meaning a sort of traditional climbing involving placing mostly removable anchors as a climb progresses, and leaving little if any trace on the rock.  I have only minor credentials  in true mountaineering and some in ice climbing; I have never engaged in ‘big-wall’, multi-day or expedition climbing.  Nevertheless I can claim membership in the most basic element of a true climbing mentality, which resembles the samurai ethic in a way: we are aware of the reality of death, and we are always alive to the risk in life, of losing it.  We do not deny this reality, though our response to it may vary widely.  This is a true divide in consciousness, between those who have not yet made this realization, or have not accepted it as real, or who deny it altogether, and those who have accepted the reality of death.  This crossover in maturity gives the individual a certain freedom he did not previously have, and an ownership of his life on a deeper level.  Fear is diminished as an element of consciousness, and greater scope for action is opened up.  Life itself is made more real, more precious, in a somewhat mysterious way.  The removal of veils of denial and fear adds something subtle – meaning? value? – to ordinary existence.
            I have, by the way, no contempt for any other form of climbing; even bouldering, a pleasant pastime involving little risk, engages the subconscious in these ways to some degree.  I have no real use for gym climbing, indoors on plastic holds, where the only risk is pulling a muscle, and the only creativity is in solving puzzles set by other people, as opposed to the infinite variety and surprise involved in real rock, out under the sky.  Young gym climbers emerge, every so often, at our local bouldering area, very fit and confident, and usually learn immediately that their climbing education has just begun; some stay, and some go back to the gym in bemusement.
            I began climbing in 1980, and for more than thirty years I climbed regularly and hard, pushing my own modest abilities when I found the time between marriage, children and job, without a single injury worse than a bruise or a cut. I am still free of any kind of overuse hand injury, and considered myself both skilled and lucky.  This essay is prompted by the incident on June 5th, 2011, when I traded all those years of care and luck for my life.  Incorrectly thinking I was belayed and being lowered, I leaned back from the rappel station on a popular climb at Old Rag Mountain, in western Virginia, and fell about 50 feet to the stony ground.  The accident was comparable in banality to the example of a person who pulls out into traffic without looking in his mirrors, and is hit; he, though sober and wide awake, simply fails to exercise due caution for reasons unknown.  In 1983 I was responsible for exactly that accident, driving my wife’s tiny, fragile 1963 MG Midget, and we missed being killed by the narrowest fraction of time worth mentioning.  The car was totaled, I got a cut on my forehead, and my very pregnant wife held a grudge about it for approximately the next 25 years.  So I have, perhaps, a slight tendency for this sort of unreliability; yet here I am, still alive.  Why?  Is it even the right question to ask?  The mind always searches for an explanation, and so I write this essay, knowing I will get no meaningful answer.  A similar, much-cited accident is the one suffered by Lynn Hill (famous, top-level rock climber), who failed to check her harness knot adequately, and fell a long way into a tree, which saved her life. 

 Longer lenses show forbidding ramparts, but cannot see over the peaks.

            Now, 50 feet is usually cited as the statistical dividing line between life and death for falls; about half of persons falling that far will die.  I don’t have statistics on the injury levels of the survivors, but I have to believe that my injuries were far down at the low end of the scale, especially considering that I was 58 years old.  My left foot hit first, taking a great portion of the force as my tibia and fibula shattered; then most of the remaining force was taken by my rear end, breaking my pelvis and severely bruising my thighs, gluteus maximi, etc.  Minor force was also taken by my right heel, with a break that did not require surgery, and my left elbow, which did need a relatively minor surgery with some titanium replacement.   The list of damage that I avoided is long: no organ damage; no spinal damage (except a very minor crack in a vertebra); no neural or brain damage; no damage to my right arm, back, shoulders, ribs, or neck.  One might cite my unusual leg strength, due to much cycling, as a factor in this outcome, but in the course of the fall there were many opportunities to land in a different configuration.  It takes less than two seconds to fall fifty feet; I had no warning, of course, and no sense of time dilation or a Technicolor review of my life now starting, with popcorn and trailers.  I felt a moment of great alarm, and then I was lying on the ground.  I looked down at my feet, saw that my left foot was now useless, and wiggled all my toes.  Immediately I felt a gladness: pure and simple, I was happy and grateful to still be alive and thinking and wiggling my toes; I knew that everything would be all right somehow.  The pain was not nearly as bad as one might imagine.  I tried to pull myself up using my right arm on a boulder, but the rest of my body parts told me that they had checked out of any more duty for today, and my partners told me to lie still.

 I had no wish to come this close.

            So that is the boring story, which I hope not to have to tell again too many times, it being both pointless and embarrassing.  After a moderate length of time, which seemed to be much less to me, I was winched up into the hovering helicopter and zoomed off to the hospital, rushed to the emergency room where I underwent terrible, swift tortures, and then finally lapsed into unconsciousness for a day or two, gradually surfacing to a complicated and bizarre set of hospital experiences.  I had never spent a long time in any hospital, so it was weird to me; but all in all they did a fantastic job of splicing me up and retrieving me from the trashbin of smashed-up climbers.  And here I am, thinking: I have not the least right to be here.  I’ve been handed a whole extended new life: what do I do with it? What does it mean, if anything?
            This is a longer poem I wrote after another brush with death: 
  
Driving North                                                                               June 29th, 2000

past Gettysburg, steam on
towards Harrisburg, and on my left
a pale glory of copper-lined cloud shines
for the memory of rusted blood on that battlefield
and the disc descends into a gauzed antechamber
a lamp trimmed in a field hospital;
though those gates are grand
we can't see through them

it’s just me and a couple of tons
            of congenial steel
steaming north on smooth asphalt
to cross the great Appalachian ridges
                        on the oblique
            sidewinding northeast
scattered thunderstorms, says the FM
                                    going my way
                        and jazz fills the car
            jazz and more jazz to straighten my brain
as we gradually overtake the storm

the storm that is dead ahead
the true black beyond the gates
                        SHOT THROUGH AND THROUGH
            with beautiful bolts
                         SHOT THROUGH
with the avatar of symbols:
instant death/god's touch of life
            the universal moment that will open
                          or close
               our eyes

those men marched down to Gettysburg
they joined the tide
the men rode down to Gettysburg
the sky turned black
they hauled their guns to Gettysburg
they passed the gate
wondering, at Gettysburg
what is beyond

in my car full of jazz
             and my head lightning-filigreed,
thoughts a tangled ball of silver thread
and the road now wet and
            black as a black snake
       twisting and troubling
                        and the many huge trucks
their skirts of spray flying wide
             lashing the wind, riding the dark river
                         as my vision
          erodes and the storm’s
iron gates slam behind us

life quickly narrows
             in attention desperately focused
                        on a line of weakly shining blips
            drifting in a roaring sea of black foam
     to guide our weaving course
preserve life a few more moments
                        from the great grinding tires
just outside my streaming windows,
        to my right up the hills
                        to my left going down
the trucks must make up time somehow
                        storm or no storm
                        storm or no storm
death or no death

fear or no fear
we must keep the hammer down.

in three moments the rain doubles
                        and redoubles and fills the narrow world
taillights smear wide in the screaming dark
            the faint reflector-guides have blinked off, gone,
    cast into a cauldron of dream
                        you struggle to open your eyes
while pumping the brake and trying to get off the road
knowing the edge is unknown
knowing you've lost control
no time to check your speed
in the fourth moment
you might think: so this is what it's like
to die
but you haven't got time
to think


just as quickly eases the rain
and my eyes are opened
and the road goes ever on...

farther north the storms end,
I and my trusted steed descend
from the rushing Styx onto
quiet narrow roads among the hills
where wraiths of vapor haunt the asphalt
in the warm forested night, and the deer
turn casually toward my headlights;
winding through tiny valleys and over
steep ridges to my parents’ house
feeling my life as a ballad,
the last verse not written

getting out of the car at midnight
a perfect silence rushing in
as the engine stops

            the stars are spread wide
            for my delectation
            at the banquet of infinity
            and far beyond the hill I see
            a faint flash, distant echo of the storm
            and meseems each single star
            speaks to me in single voice
            and this is all they say:

                                    lucky to be alive...
                        lucky to be alive...
                        you are
                        lucky
                        to be
                        alive

            Disclaimer: I am not a Poet, nor am I a ‘poet’ of any kind.  Unfortunately, at irregular intervals poems arrive in my head and demand to be written down, and I have no choice but to comply as best I can.  I consider poetry to be one of the deepest of all human arts, but at present in our civilization it is all but dead, and accorded no respect or value whatsoever.  In future millennia it will reassert itself, after the Computer has died.

 Down a steep bank to the rocky strand we went, by waters connected to the Pacific; an excellent place to contemplate Eternity, futile though that may be.


            Once again, in this poem as the previous one, death is only a screen, a blank white wall, but absolutely necessary for the projection of life, and to color with adequate vividness the feeling I have for life.  And this literary device only shadows the actuality of life and death as elements of consciousness; they have been recognized in the earliest philosophical writings as indispensable to each other, and endlessly mythologized as amoral protagonists in the cosmic dance that we have no choice but to participate in.  Our only choice is how we feel about it.
            I am revealed once again as a lonely champion of “free will” – a concept not really amenable to objective analysis; maybe “just a feeling” after all.  But what feeling is more crucial to the independent functioning of an individual?  Yes, I am well aware that the existence of the self has also been disproved in the presumably selfless minds of many modern philosophers; I arrogantly consider them to be captives of emotion – that emotion that relieves its fear and pain in a comprehensive fatalism, and the notion that all is illusion, and reality cannot be reliably located or described, and hence is a useless concept.  The whole argument is boringly tautological, to me at least.  More important is the experience of the moment – the window on the world that we do at least appear to have; and the moment when I lay broken on the ground and realized that my life had been ended and just as quickly re-started, was an experience of such a force and quality that denial of it is simply foolish.  The remaining task (if I choose to accept it) is to find or create a meaning for this moment.  After all, it carries a lot more weight in my life than, say, what I had for breakfast this morning.

 Wine in plastic cups, and time freely and casually spent; beat that, Socrates!

            Unfortunately for me, I’ve been forced to tell the story of this accident to a myriad of people: friends, family, acquaintances and health-care workers.  But it is interesting to note their immediate reactions:  a significant fraction of them adopt some form of a primitive fatalism, as in, “You lucky so-and-so,” “It wasn’t your time to go,” “Somebody up there has a plan for you,” and the like.  This provides a simplistic, place-holder explanation for the inexplicable or the unlikely, and is of no philosophical interest to me.  An even more common response is to ask whether I will climb again, and I always answer in the affirmative without hesitation or qualification.  This tells me that my subconscious has processed the meaning of the break in my life, and deems no serious course change necessary; the cause of the break was not the activity I was engaged in, but my own simple carelessness.  But these reactions are deep and true to our being.  I am forced to think of the scenes in Lawrence of Arabia in which Lawrence rejects the fatalism of his Arab fighters:
            “It is written, Effendi!”
            “Nothing is written until I write it!”

            And he goes back into the desert at great personal risk to rescue a man who had fallen behind.  A perfect assertion of free will; and then later, of course, the very same man is found to have committed an atrocity, and Lawrence himself must execute him, and the Arabs are muttering, “It was written.”  Life and death are not ours to determine, we feel in our core; and yet we often make supreme and even final efforts to influence these universal realities.

 I'm thinking this stick holds important secrets to Life and Death!
 
                In my case I can imagine the Grecian Fates, the Moirae, looking at me on the cliff:

Atropos: “Ok, that’s it for this sucker. Snip, snip – so long, dirtbag!”
[tiny action figure of Dave falls to the ground]
Lachesis: “What th’?  You blind old fool!  Look, I’ve measured all this extra thread!”
Atropos: “Oh, all right.  But you must have measured wrong!”
Lachesis: “Doesn’t matter – he gets this much more, right or wrong. What am I, chopped  
                  liver?”
[as they squabble, tiny action figure Dave wiggles his toes.]

 Gimme that stick! You don't know the first premise regarding stickness!

            The truth is, we are afraid of our dark subconscious half, which makes its own decisions and reverses our own best intentions.  Loki lurks inside us, laughing inscrutably.  We try to shut him up with reason, the tools of conscious thought, but of course they get no traction with him.  So I come out by the same door as in I went.

               “One thing is certain, and the Rest is Lies;
               The Flower that once has blown for ever dies.”
 
                                              - Khayyam/Fitzgerald XXVI

            So, yes!  You’re reading a pointless essay, just as I warned you.  And how do I personally feel about life and death; how do I choose to feel, now, after having been so forcibly confronted once again with these intractable issues inherent to existence?

 I'm quite sure you must have a treat or two hidden in your pockets. This is my creed.

            I was born, somehow, with joy in my heart.  When I was six I often ran out of the house in the cold clear morning and I wandered the Canadian woods alone, and went home to have hot chocolate or apple juice, and life was simply good.  Sadness and evil did exist, as I came to know, but I never changed my mind.  I still haven’t changed it.  Perhaps I don’t have that choice after all – though I have known a typical variety of discouraging and unpleasant things in my life – and if I did decide that life is sad and evil, and death therefore a blessing, would that prove anything?  Although I have never considered suicide for a single moment of my life, many others do, and take that ultimate action.  Are they all mistaken?  Or is this decision not something that the common experience of our species can illuminate – in other words, an entirely individual experience, wholly owned by one person alone?
            In a few months I will be able to ride my bike again.  I will get on it in the cold clear morning and I will ride it just as I always have: as far and as fast as I can get away with.  If you happen to see me riding by, and look carefully, you’ll see a smiling man with a beady-eyed crow on his shoulder.  Don’t suddenly jump out, yelling “What about death?” – because I’ve already thought about it, and made up my mind.

 Well - about time to pack up and vamoose.  Where's my stick?

            Third and final poem:


On the Oblique                                                              9/5/2006

This apple tree was old when I was young.
Yet it is not decrepit; green mold on worn bark,
some iron-hard snags of silver deadwood
interrupting its homely, moth-eaten thatch.

One large limb, a quarter of the tree, is dead;
I stood oblique on a sloping trunk,
tested my stance and the grip of my shoes
on the mottled-olive bark; looked up and right

to the other trunk carrying the dead wood,
calculated and imagined the cut, and my cousin
handed me up the running chainsaw
and right away I tilted it to the proper plane and cut.

Cleanly crashed the limb to the green turf;
quick I cut off the saw and climbed down.

Firewood in the truck, sticks off in the stick pile,
twigs raked up, sawdust left to molder.
“Apple’s a damned hard wood,” I said, and he
replied, “Yeah, it'll burn well.”

My father came out to watch a moment;
he has locust logs cached for posts or rails,
or to burn. “Apple’s a damned hard wood,” he said,
and we grunted agreement.

Death was also watching, as always.
As I stood on the trunk, lifted the saw, Death stood ready
to cut me down; yet I and my cousin knew
as well one can know, my time had not arrived.

Casual but not careless, we call Death our companion,
we keep him in the corner of our eye.


Mandala. Totally, comprehensively meaningful. Take my word for it.

 
             text and photos copyright by David Warren Rockwell, July 30th 2011

Sunday, November 21, 2010

Joshua Tree Expedition, October 2010


NOTES – lightly embellished and edited. Text and photos copyright 2010 by David Warren Rockwell. (except as noted.)

Joshua Tree, with Chris and Tomek, Sept 30 – Oct 13, and with Todd Oct 6 – 13, 2010

Weather: first half: unsettled, wind, small rain, lightning, partly sunny; daytime high 80 F., nighttime about 40 F.
Second half: settled, no wind, no clouds, daytime highs up through 90, lows 45 or 50.

Chris racks up for the first lead of the trip

Lead T-shirt: Robots Revolt. Lead song: Dirty Life and Times, Warren Zevon.

Sept. 30th 2010

                Rain and floods in DC – water in the basement, but good cheer in the family. “Are you 6 years old?” And we laughed uncontrollably.  Cheerfully she drove me to Dulles after much fun at Dogfish Head.

East face of Hidden Tower


[Finally I am beginning to understand the lovely epigram of Delmore Schwartz:

Love is the most difficult and dangerous form of courage.
Courage is the most desperate, admirable and noble kind of love.]


Uneventful flight sandwiched between the two Poles – one tall and gaunt, the other short, round-faced, long-haired, but sharing a sense of thoughtful silence – feeling no need to fill it up with talk.
Picked up van at Budget and navigated skillfully out 105/605/10 and to Joe’s Tacos – nice little truckstop place where the $6.50 lunch special is v. large, whatever it is, and always comes with tortilla chips, refried beans, rice, melted cheese. Some gastric distress still ongoing after big chili party two days gone.
Usual stops at Stater Bros. for food and Big 5 for propane, and on into the park. Immediately secured campsite # 35 – 5:30 pm. So we walked out behind the Cyclops to boulder for about 90 mins.; gorgeous pink/purple sunset. Tea and cookies before bed. Cloudy.

Chris leading Sail Away, 5.8


Oct. 1st – a good climbing day.

                   Chris led Sail Away, 5.8, flash of course; Tomek followed and cleaned. I followed and rapped off tiny NW face, toproped the 5.10a with a view to leading later; no falls, good short climb. Possible lead if you really know your nuts.

Placing a piece to protect the last move
A small and airy summit.

                   Walking tour of Real Hidden Valley incl. Illusion Dweller. Lunch: noodles.
                   I led Raven’s Reach 5.10a, no falls – did left, face version at ‘reach’ dihedral move; Chris followed, Tomek could not.  I then toproped Flue Right, 5.10b, no falls! V. nice climb, best not to lead. Tomek made valiant attempt but couldn’t, took a minor swing. Chris declined.
                   Drove to Echo Rock. Chris led and Tomek followed Stichter Quits 5.7, no falls. I bouldered and photographed, attempted to TR Cherry Bomb, 5.10c, no dice.

Chris leads Stichter Quits, 5.7


Calibration of shoe friction is critical...


on this trackless slab.


Very soon he will clip his last bolt; the anchor hides far above.

10/2/2010 – Another excellent climbing day!

Woke at 4:30 to pee. Through intermittent high clouds a magnificent view of Orion high over the Cyclops. Sirius blue as always.

Sunrise, glorious and dire...


  chaos, uncertainty, the order of the day.

                  Woke again to light rain, lightning over western hills. It started to thicken, so we drove into town for eggs and bacon at the Country Kitch’n.  It was crowded, and the power was out; the Cambodian lady was working hard and coping – made more coffee in pots on stove. Good cheese omelet, hash browns made with no salt, toast, etc. Sourdough toast available, Chris’s favorite.
                  Drove to Stater again, got more food and water. Using about 1 gal./person/day. Most thrift stores closed due to power outage. Good farmers market in parking lot. Bought 4 books in Christian bookstore in Yucca Valley. [No, not Christian books.] Got gas for Chris’s stove in Yellow Mart sporting goods store. Fishing, hunting, camping, with huge lingerie and sexy-top section for guys buying for their bedmates.
Weather cleared – drove back to camp. Bouldered at the Turtle in lazy manner, but I flashed the Turnbuckle, 1st try! Checked out Gripped Up…5.10a – total sandbag, do not ever go back.

Bouldering session out behind the Turtle.


Chris going highball on us.


About to Cruise the Turnbuckle, 5.11+!


 Maybe not today, though.

                   Went to Intersection Rock. Chris led most of Overhang Bypass 5.7+++***. (Last pitch short but fun, my lead.) He did the ‘cave’ blockage to left, though could have stemmed right up the middle if he had some pro there. Tomek went left following; I went right, lower down, onto the face and up as per book. Climb is 5.7 physically but demands excellent leading skills and judgment.

Chris leads, Tomek follows, Overhang Bypass, 5.7.


Peculiar, intimidating...


 ...and spectacular.

Dinner: chili with black beans and garlic mashed potatoes. Stars out. All well.

10/3/2010
                6:00 a.m. ¼ moon lit my way to the toilet, casting sharp shadow. Huge thunderstorms in the south, moving in slowly – much lightning, barely audible thunder. Rained last night, first gently, then hard, with lightning, tent floor holding up ok.



              Coyotes hold brief discussion just now. Distant thunder and small noises just set off the Great Silence. I seem to feel the silence cleaning me – dissolving the rust and scale of city psyche.

              Orion is due south; Great Bear northeast, but now both are obscured. Would be nice if the day was dry. We have brought very little rain gear, of course. 10-day forecast showed almost nothing but sun and 90ยบF. highs.

              Many black beetles: they walk with their butts high and their heads low – big black butts – if disturbed they stick their butts straight up in a very menacing attitude, and hold still. Common beetle problem: how to get back on feet if overturned.

The Pinacate beetle, aka stink beetle; name derived from ‘pinacatl’, Nahuatl (Aztec), simply meaning ‘black beetle’. Its headstand pose is a warning that your next attack will elicit some nasty chemical warfare from his ass.

6:15 – Stars all gone – pre-dawn gloaming extended by clouds.
               Among books bought yesterday was R.D. Laing’s “Self and Others”. We discussed Laing and Julian Jaynes (Origin of Consciousness, etc.) at dinner.
               We are all sleeping well, except that Tomek confessed to ‘bad dreams’. And he added, “I don’t know why.” Neighbors reasonably quiet.
                Strange dreams myself:
1. Journey to aid weird deserter cult sitting and lying in mud up to necks, in a room in an old Gothic dormitory – pried off screen, negotiated through window – atmosphere of shock and disgust.
2. Tents were pitched inside a house – many others sleeping crowded around. Discussion of what to do about owners large, multi-room basement prone to flooding – I said, make it into a swimming pool.
3. I was a bit hot, and a doctor friend put a glass thermometer into my mouth and went away – later came back to find that I had broken it into several pieces in my mouth while talking, and didn’t even notice.

6:30 Good light now, headlamp off. North and West clear, South and East cloudy.

10/14/2010
Sunrise: 7:14 KA-BLAMMO!
Slow time, slow mind
Crow: (quietly) 1. 2. 3. / 1. 2. 3. etc.

                Yesterday – led Room to Shroom for the third time. [Good hike beyond, around N Astro Dome to the Don Juan boulder.]

The fabulous 5.9 hand crack Room to 'Shroom


 Photo by Chris Mrozowski



we headed north into trackless lands...

where we steered by the Astro Domes...

...through a rat's maze...


...to the Don Juan Boulder...


...where we consulted the sacred texts...

and experienced visions...
Brilliant cloud line slowly walking across mountaintop as sun hangs fire…

                Yesterday we visited the boulder called Pinhead (or is it just the crack problem?). The crack is  rated at  5.11-; actually it is 5.9 if properly laybacked. Nice friction problem on NW corner; no one can figure out N face.
 A relaxing workout on the Pinhead boulder.

 A smooth, baffling chess problem...

 considered from all angles...


 must eventually yield!

                  V. nice coyote performance ~ 6:30 a.m. – group nearby sings several short songs; after each they pause and a listener far away responds with a brief “Yeah!” Finally they stopped, apparently when their audience of one stopped listening. These guys’n’gals are jokers and smokers. Casual ebullience of their attitude. Why not? Jackrabbits are plentiful. Had two in our camp this morning – one walked up as close as 10 feet from the table as we drank our coffee, examined us and left unhurriedly. Taking his sweet time.
Bouldered the tiny ‘Phallus’ spire, 5.7, right behind tents. R. side is maybe 5.7, fun, l. side probably 5.9 or harder; didn’t feel quite erect enough for that. [better name for this formation: Cobra]

Girl with dreads reading at the base of the Phallus.

Tomek led ‘Circe’. 5.6 on the Cyclops w/4 pieces, good job. Good pics from above.


Tomek leads the classic 5.6 Circe


 on the right arete edge of the great dihedral...


 known as the Eye of the Cyclops.


 His anchors placements are few...



 but carefully chosen and installed.


 ...pass the crux...


 ...wind through the windy caves...


...cleverly avoid being enporcined...


 ...and outwit fearsome cornice to win through to the open sky.


                Came back, rained briefly, soup for lunch under a boulder, then I tried to lead ‘Pinched Rib’ 5.10b, failed, downclimbed. Can see target hold, but not reach it.


I'm flummoxed on "Pinched Rib" 5.10b; had to do a careful downclimb.  NOW, of course, I think I have the solution to it in my head.
Photo by Tomek Chudy.

                 Walked around – Chris led ‘Hands Off’ 5.8, flash, enjoyed it, Tomek followed. Very windy up top. Many good photos from above; brief selection follows:

























 Belaying Tomek in high wind.


                    Tired of wind, at 4 p.m. we drove to town to get cell reception. Contacted homes: “Washing machine won’t fill, window won’t close.” [Jarring disjunct between mundane home crap so far away and the magnificence of our surroundings.] Called Todd to conform arrival tom. L.B. airport; Hannah at city meeting. Stopped at Del Taco, had fish tacos. Pilfered hot sauce as per S.O.P.; washed face, hands, forearms in restroom; went back to camp playing Prokofiev’s 5th on car stereo in the sunset. [Tomek is an accomplished classical pianist, and also a fan of jazz incl. Dixieland.]
Poles recommend reading: works of Ryszard Kapuscinski – “Soccer Wars”, “The Emperor”, “Imperium”.


10/5/2010
                Day of the fat rat bunny! Corrupted rabbit begs for cookies, gets them.
                4:45 a.m. 40ยบ F. light wind, very clear. Stars Galore. New moon just rising over eastern skyline. [Momentarily startled by the weird alien object on the eastern skyline – dark grey disc flanked by two glowing spikes, the sickle moon facing upward, rising over the hill’s sharp edge.] Dark disk, horned god – many aches and pains – pulled back muscle, full bladder, cold head, weird unpleasant dreams, putting on pants and boots – step outside to see the splendors, the vastness of the Galaxy! All for me!
                Drove to Long Beach, picked up Todd at airport. Hit the In’n’Out Burger on the way back. Todd had his ‘animal style’– some kind of sauce. Hit the Yellow Mart for more gas, the Stater for food, and the Holy Jeezus Thrift for a warm hat. Lucky – Chris found a nice Patagonia fleece too small for him; I got it for $4. Now reading and writing in the tent much more comfortable.

 The Desert Apes Climbing Team infesting the Long Beach airport just prior to disbanding for the winter.
Photo by Anonymous Passerby.

                Back at camp by 4 p.m. – sunny, cool breeze – the guys seemed sluggish, but I felt we should not waste time – dragged the platoon out to Echo Cove, where Chris led Fun Stuff, 5.8, and I led W.A.C. 5.8 and set a toprope, and then led R.A.F. 5.9 and Todd followed without any great difficulty. Excellent ending to long day of driving. [Note: Dodge Grand Caravan is an excellent camping vehicle and got better than 21 mph on the highway.]

Chris tops out with the dying light...


on Fun Stuff, 5.8,at Echo Cove
Things I forgot or foolishly decided not to bring:
Warm hat
Gloves
Inflatable pillow
Fleece
Rope hooks
Binoculars

10/6/2010
Another excellent climbing day! At least for me and Chris – not so much for Todd. Breakfast: sardines and ramen noodles!



After discussion we went to the Cyclops, there to lead Spaghetti and Chili, 5.7, and Goldilocks, 5.7. As Tomek led Goldilocks in steady manner, Todd struggled mightily with the classic launch-out layback/undercling crux of S&C, gave up in spite of coaching. [He just couldn’t make himself step out there.] He was downhearted.


 
I led it to top, and he then still could not commit to even following. A nice route. Then we switched places – I led Goldilocks, Todd accidentally put on Chris’s Mythos which got a big laugh, but did not hinder him from following me with ease. Chris led S&C in good style; Tomek followed easily, and Todd was even more discouraged.

 Chris demos the classic equalizing-x;


 checks out the crack;

launches onto minimal or virtual footholds;

 and cruises.

Soon Chris tops out on the easy but picturesque overhang.
 
                Lunch. Then a quick trip to Echo Cove to retrieve a dropped wire. Todd lethargic, unwilling. So we went to Hidden Tower and I led Wild Wind, 5.9*** with the subtle and difficult rising traverse finish, probably 5.10a in my opinion. Tomek followed very well but was stumped by the start of the traverse, and instead finished straight up on the short and easy crack. Before we could toprope Sail Away a pair showed up to lead it.
               So on the spur of the moment we went to the nearby Locomotive Rock. I quickly led Jumping Jehosephat, 5.7, Chris followed leaving the gear in so Tomek could lead in turn more quickly. As Todd followed I amazed myself by toproping, with no falls, the nice 5.10b, Grain Dance, just to the right (harder in the newer books), which, long ago, I had failed on once. Three or four very hard and peculiar boulder moves at the top of the climb must be solved in sequence.
              Drove to town to check the tire pressure at the AM/PM gas station [car gave a warning, tires were about 32 psi, calls for 36.] Addicts (Todd and Tomek) bought ciggies; too late for a shower at the corner store, hours are 10-6.
              Dinner – noodles scampi w/tuna, cling peaches in syrup, hot choc., tea. Cold but not like last night – stars really magnificent. Noisy campground.

10/7/2010
6:00 a.m. – gloaming.

              Woke to pee; had also gone at 1:30.  Stars then were absolutely full.  Pleiades clear, Orion, and Sirius brilliant on the horizon.

The previous evening as I was walking back from the Cyclops boulders this thought drifted through my head:

                     The horns of the Minotaur will lead you into a maze of endless beauty, 
where you will wander contented until you die.

                  No doubt what Theseus read on his fortune cookie before he headed down to Knossos. Prompted by climbing the boulder problem on the back side, somewhat highball, the crux at the very top, of course, one toe hooked on the horn as far out as possible, one set of fingers pressing into a tiny seam on the summit. Trust, verify, then trust again as you lever your weight over the edge and back into balance.
                 Remember the young man who passed by on crutches as we climbed Masochist, who had fallen from a high problem, missed his pad, and badly sprained his ankle. He was headed toward the Cyclops boulders.

 What is this guy pondering?  Wittgenstein?  Spherical trigonometry? Or which can to open for dinner?
 Photo by Tomek Chudy.

Yet another fantastic climbing day!

First Toprope:
DAWN TREADER!!!

Mt. Grossvogel, SE face




Toproped. With direct finish over mystery knob! Extremely thin. 5.10d? 5.11a?
Unknown. But as thin and as hard as anything I’ve ever done.



 Knob is manteled, then palmed, with extreme finger-edging and extreme smear-edging.


 
Flying on chalk and faith in the Mighty Purple Mythos! (Or substitute your favorite shoe.) 


 "You've got to be joking!"
  
After we all had tried toproping it, it was 1:00 p.m. Some rude names for the direct knob finish:
Slob my Knob
Polish my Knob
Paris Hilton’s Clit
and the like.



Todd’s first Josh lead: Dr. Seuss Vogel, 5.6 – no problems. 




                  Chris led Ranger Danger, 5.8 – excellent example of this type of leaning dihedral. We all followed quickly – tricky walkoff to the east. [I felt curiously sharp and strong – was last to follow, so the cleaner of the gear, and I went so quickly that the guys commented on it.  Aftereffect of going all out on Dawn treader?]

Desert apes relaxing in prehistoric landscape.

Todd suggests I lead Sidewinder, 5.10b**** in Steve Canyon.

[I wrote yet another description of the Dawn Treader. Equally well done in May notes. Except for:]

How to Climb the Mystery Knob:

                 Mantel knob w/ right hand, claw for micro holds w/left and feet, then switch to palm down on knob. Ignore the pain and work micro-edge finger holds. Get right foot onto knob somehow (this part was mysterious.) Then step up on almost nothing to get left hand to a rotten edge, then to a better one; finish in short seam on the right. It is also possible to step off rightwards from knob, rising onto mild hump, which is what Todd did – some marvelous frictioning.

10/8/2010 – another perfect, no-clouds climbing day!

Led “Count on your Fingers”. Easy 5.9, short, much pro. Chris followed.

Todd and Tomek did Fote Hog 5.6 on the Sentinel east face; Todd led P.1.


Todd belays Tomek on the second pitch, as a woman leads pitch one.



Apparently she needed to go back and reduce rope drag here.


Tomek finishing up.


Later I led “Loose Lady”, 2nd time, no falls. [first time was in 1999.] Tomek led Lucky Lady 5.8, Chris followed; Tomek followed “Loose Lady”, no falls. Todd could not do first move of “Loose”. Tough on fingers. One must accept the pain level and crank.

Rightly considered a great moderate sport classic, Loose Lady has no loose rock now, but has several subtle cruxes on sharp edges for the first two thirds; when the edges go away, but the difficulty doesn't, one is unnerved, having been softened up by that time.
Photo by Chris Mrozowski.



                   We went to town for showers, Taquitz guidebook, gasoline, Del Taco – much regretted later by Chris and Todd.  Back at camp we discovered uproarious new neighbors – idiot children (college kids) yammering on and on into the night.  We checked out Ryan campground, decided we are too lazy to move camp.

10/9/2010 Taquitz Expedition! Weather perfect.

                  87 miles to Idyllwild via Banning, etc., from Hidden Valley camp. Get $5 parking pass for Humber Park at the bottom of hill, in town, before driving up. From parking lot take lower trail south ~ 100 yards, then strike uphill on steep climber-scree- trail, ~ 40 min. to base.
                  The first few easy classics we approached were choked with wankers, especially “Angel’s Fright” 5.6 – two parties on first pitch. The upper party: a man was belaying a woman; inexplicably he had led a hard variation on the left, put in short slings on the pro, and did not protect the second on a long rising traverse. She was unable to follow and was asking questions that indicated inexperience. In the lower party the follower was just starting; he was wearing black bicycle tights and painfully pointy sport-climbing shoes, and had no idea how to climb the easy chimney, and was nervous, clearly in over his head. So we left.
                  Eventually Chris and Tomek led a climb called Left Ski Track (not to be confused with the Ski Track climbs at Intersection Rock in Josh), three pitches, and they enjoyed it; Todd led pitches 1, 2, and 4 of Jensen’s Jaunt, 5.6, and I led p.3. Felt tired, back tight, but the short crux on p.3 is airy, fun and not too awkward. [The kind of offwidth that intimidates at first, but becomes simple when you decide not to yield to your fearful wish to crawl inside it.]


Classic white Yosemite-style granite.


                 Note: p.2 and 3 could be combined into a very nice long pitch if using long rope. Good pro, rope drag not a problem, perfect weather. Last pitch is easy slab – Todd led with pro here and there.
Walk-off back side is slightly tricky downclimb/scramble located above and behind a large rectangular boulder – drop down small chimney, etc.


 Rejoining the Polish team at advance base camp after good climbing all around.


                 Dinner! Terrific burgers at the Lumber Mill Bar and Grill – pitcher of Hefeweizen, my first beer in ten days. Curly fries, etc. College football on the tube; players looked like grotesquely over-muscled wads of sausage. The owner/waitress came by to talk, is an old lady (near 60?), been there 40 years, who climbs or has climbed 5.11a at Suicide! Weeping Wall! Good stories of Taquitz.
                 Coca-cola on drive back – many switchbacks, but uneventful. Long, tiring day, stiff back, etc.
Came home to 4 cars clogging up our spot, and idiot children partying. One car left, was only visiting. No doubt these dolts will disappear tomorrow.

10/10/10

Numerologists celebrate their special day! World ending soon, say crows, Mayans.

Hence a day of miscellaneous weirdness.

Todd: “The Pickled Beet Conspiracy.” (re spilled beet juice in car)
Dave: “By Arthur Conan Doyle.”

Todd’s Mystical Dragon sauce.  The man is a gourmand of the crags.

                From the previous day, the incident of the yellow-jackets’ sandwich at Taquitz and the placing of the sandwich in the pack by well-meaning, brave-but-stupid passerby:  While hiking down along the base we saw a submarine sandwich left open on a pack; it was covered with yellow jackets scarfing up lunch in the sunlight.  Then the weirdness happened: a climber unconnected with the sandwich's owners, and a stranger to us, came by, and thinking he was doing a favor, gently picked up the sub and shook most of the wasps off of it, and stashed it in the pack lying there. He was not stung, which was amusing, as was the thought of the horrid surprise in store for the pack's owner, because those wasps were certainly not going to remain politely outside the pack as the sub became ever more appetizing inside it.  "The Case of the Insidious Lunch."

List of elements composing the well-rounded trad. lead climber:

Techniques:
Face climbing
Laybacking
Friction/smearing
Stemming/opposition
Jamming and other crack techniques
The usual protection placement skills

Mentality:
Fear control
Aggressiveness
Creativity
Prudence



9 useful life rules from rock climbing, according to Matthew Childs in his TED talk, and embellished by me and other Taoists.
  1. Don’t let go! Hang in there. The monkey-brain will send you up a solution very soon.
  1. He who hesitates is lost. See clearly, act swiftly.
  1. Have a plan. Be as careful at the end of a project as at the beginning.
  1. Do the move in front of you. Focus on each task in turn.
  1. Know how to rest. Find an interstice in the blank pain and gather strength.
  1. Strength ain’t everything. Samson lacked subtlety, and suffered sorely.
  1. Opposition gives opportunity. Samson chained to one pillar is weak; chained to two pillars he is strong.
  1. Fear weakens, sabotages effort and concentration. Wall it off.
  1. Know when to let go. If you must fall, try to tweak the circumstances in your favor.

               Kind of a rest day. Soloed chimney-only version of “Skinny-dip” 5.7 (a purely nominal rating) in order to assist Chris in backing off (chimney itself is v. easy.) He, and probably me too, are just too big to fit through the hole. Then we all tried to toprope the attractive 5.10d “Invisible Touch” without success.


 We saw a climber disappear into this hole...

And emerge on the other side, so we knew it could be done...




So Chris gave it an all-out try, until he heard cracking noises in his rib cage, and wisely desisted.

"Invisible Touch", 5.10d;
 
...we just couldn't see it.

The Bald Eunuch of the Cyclops! Weird guy in orange shorts came up, soloed the Cyclops’ Eye just before Todd’s lead – later heard him yelling in unknown languages (to his alien god, etc.?) from the summit. 
Photo by Chris Mrozowski


Foodstains on the table will be cleaned by sun, rain, wind, animals. Casual dirtbag companionship. [primitive society of men without women or any immediate worries.]

Photo by Tomek Chudy

               Todd led “Masochist”, 5.8, 3 bolts, short but fun, not painful. Long gear anchor needed; easy access through “Tubers in Space” 5.4, to left.

               Rapped the Cyclops to examine 'Olympics' climb – ‘new’ bolt near crux. Should try.

10/11/10 2:30 a.m. pee break

~50ยบ F. Total, dead silence.

No wind.

No clouds.

No moon.

Orion, the Hunter. 6½ Pleiades. The great blue bell of Sirius ringing across the desert.

[Inevitably I must quote the mad, doomed poet Delmore Schwartz:

“Silence is a great blue bell
Swinging and ringing, tinkling and singing,
In measure’s pleasure, and in the supple symmetry
Of the soaring of the immense intense wings
Glinting against
All the blue radiance above us and within us, hidden
Save for the stars sparking, distant and unheard in their singing.”]


Coyotes sleeping or hunting.

The desert which is not empty. Not, as people imagine, a reduction of existence.
Not [Ogden Nash]:

Over the Great Gromboolian Plain
Awful Darkness and Silence Reign.

But instead, a realm full of life and infinite context.

               One day, I don't know which, we were idling around the camp, goofing off, when all at once an expensive car drove up and parked in our lot, a well-dressed older gentleman in suit and tie got out, whipped out an expensive camera, took a picture of the picturesque nomad Tomek as he sat at the picnic table, as if he were a coyote, got back in his car and drove off.  I was insulted on Tomek's behalf, of course, but the vast mental gulf between that tourist and ourselves, though typical, struck me as interesting in itself.  I suspect we could not have communicated meaningfully with this specimen, who clearly considers us to be the specimens worthy of note.  Perhaps he will write his own essay on his photo: "Out in the last few useless pockets of California desert one still may find a few pathetic refugees from the Psychedelic Sixties," and so forth.  We substitute a spurious context out of sheer laziness, and fail to connect.   

             If an individual is mostly context, what is left as the unique property of the self? Only interpretation, owned interaction with the world. And this is real, hence powerful:

57 Hence the way is great; heaven is great; earth is great; and the king is also great.
     Within the realm there are four things that are great, and the king counts as one.

- so wrote the old man.


I am the King, of all I survey. Hence it is incumbent on me to survey well and with intent.

Earth – physical universe.
Heaven – consciousness, the mental universe.
Tao, the way – the presumed, hypothetical algorithm that links Heaven and Earth. The way it all theoretically harmonizes.
King – the self that experiences, creates, owns them all.

Here I am probably surveying some girl's scientifically interesting anatomy rather than the guy I'm belaying.
Photo by Tomek Chudy.



                 After breakfast I led Sidewinder, 5.10b**** as a flash, onsight lead. A personal milestone, and a wonderful climb in every way. An entire separate essay will be needed to clarify the meaning of this climb in my turbulent head.

Photo by Todd Bradley

This guy emerged from the initial crack not long after I had climbed through.
Photo by Tomek Chudy.

Standing on not much, working the first crux.
Photo by Tomek Chudy.


Placing a somewhat superfluous nut...
Photo by Tomek Chudy.

...because the next move was trivial. 
Photo by Tomek Chudy.

Finishing up the very thin, man-on-a-wire crux traverse. 
Photo by Tomek Chudy.



                 Yet another perfect climbing day. Followed Todd on The Bong, 5.4, on the Blob. Sleepy. Hot, not much breeze.

                 Took Todd bouldering before dinner behind the Cyclops.

On the back side of this classic set of boulders are found Horns of the Minotaur and Invisible Wave, among others.  (These are just my own names for them.)

Saw 2 shooting stars after dinner, one of them big. ¼ moon casting sharp shadows. Good place for telescope.

Tomorrow – last day.

10/12/10 4:35 a.m.

¼ moon long since set. Total silence, no wind. Saw two more major shooting stars, one very bright and large, could briefly see glowing core.

“The real drug is meaning.”

Sidewinder still fresh in the mind.

Pro list in order

1. Medium nut at top of flake, 24” sling.
2. Bolt at lower crux, 24” sling
3. Brown or purple tricam partway out the arching crack, 48” sling
4. # 9 DMM nut at a horn, 30” sling. This nut was questionable and probably unnecessary.
5. large wired nut halfway up vertical crack, 24” sling
6. final bolt to protect traverse, 24” sling.

With this group the rope drag on the last delicate traverse is reasonable. Doubtful, really, whether double ropes would have reduced the drag enough to justify the increased weight.

Sunrise ~ 7:15 a.m. – take off hat.

I actually look forward to getting up at 4:30 a.m. to pee – the weather has been very clear and stable for the last six days – no wind. Heard an owl this morning (I think). Cadence: hoohoo, hoo, hoo. Repeat. Off to the west. Coyotes sounding off distantly at breakfast.

“Sometimes I feel like my shadow’s casting me,
Some days the sun don’t shine;
Sometimes I wonder why I’m still running free
All up and down the line.”
- Warren Zevon




YET ANOTHER! perfect climbing day…

Atlantis Wall in Lost Horse area.





                   Last day to climb. Todd led a 5.5 and a 5.8, we all followed, Chris led a couple of 5.8s, and I toproped, flash, onsight, “Ceremony”, 5.10c*, a pretty set of almost-vertical boulder moves.   Chris did it 2nd try; I was sorely tempted to lead it, but thought it would be fun to leave it for next trip.  After watching me and Chris and getting beta, Todd also succeeded on it.  He's stronger than he thinks he is.

                   Drove back around to Hemingway, IRS wall, etc. but in the end decided to save time, go back to camp. Chris led the Flue, 5.8 *** with some trepidation but no falls, we all followed, and that was that.

 The start is not obvious, and is steep too.



A bit of awkwardness in the middle...


and he cruises up to the anchor.



                  Off to the showers, gas station, bank and La Casita Nueva for sizzling fajitas served on cast-iron and Negra Modela. Some colorful bikers and the usual fat-blob humanoids everywhere. Another perfect day in JT.  Next time: visit J.T. Saloon, tank museum, desert hot springs.



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He clasps the crag with crooked hands; Close to the sun in lonely lands, Ring'd with the azure world, he stands. The wrinkled sea beneath him crawls; He watches from his mountain walls, And like a thunderbolt he falls.